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TUCoPS :: Radio :: ic24at11.txt

Mod for Icom 24at


I am told that the newer 24AT's (believed not to have made it to the US
yet)  will have the hardware mods in place, so only steps 5-7 will be
necessary.  So, try this first.  Steps 5-7 don't seem to have any effect
on a 24AT without the correct hardware mods.  BTW, this has been attempted
on 2 units with serial numbers around 1000 and mid-1100's, neither of which
worked.  :-(    Like I said, the ones with the mods aren't here yet.

There are 5 screws to remove the case (5th is on the strap hook).  Keep
the top panel controls with the front of the radio, and be VERY careful
pulling the back off because there are fine ribbon cables connecting the
front & back.  I don't think they'll take much flexing.

Additionally, diodes D7, D8, and D12 are surface mount components.  They
contain 2 diodes connected to 3 pins.  Diodes D7 and D12 are different
configurations.  I believe D8 and D12 are different, so I wouldn't put the
removed D8 in the spot for D12.  Since they are surface mount, removal of
D8 may not be all that difficult for those with steady hands and a fine
low power soldering iron, but adding D12 would be a bear.  I know of no
reason that small discrete diodes couldn't be used in for D12.  D13 is a
small but standard axial diode, and can be easily cut.

It is for this reason I have not attempted the hardware mods.  Now, if the
referenced posting is correct, and only D13 needs to be cut...  I'm
guessing, but it could be that the rest of the diode changes are for the
10 MHz & 100 MHz digit entry (which I'd like but could live without) or
out-of-band TX, or the like.

If anyone has tried only cutting D13 and resetting?  Did it work?  What
is your serial number?  Please post to the net!

If I learn more, I'll follow up.
Mike Pflueger
Packet: WD8KPZ @ W1FJI

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