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TUCoPS :: Physical Security :: master1.txt

Master Lock Picking File 1





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                _/      \_  ____________________________
               /  __      \/                            \  
              |  (__)        Mastering the Masterlock   / 
               \_        _/\________    ___  __   __  _/ 
                 \______/           \  /   \/  \_/  \/ 
                         Written By: \/   The Gypsy   
                         From:         Dead On Arrival


  This file will instruct you on how to build a master key for the type of locks
that are found in many school systems. These locks are locks that are generally
rented to the students for the school year. It is a combination lock on the
front, and each has a different combination that is given to the student with
the lock. On the back of these locks is a small keyhole. This keyhole can be
easily mastered once you have one. Also on the back of these locks as a number
that has been imprinted on by Masterlock, Inc. at the factory. The types I have
encountered and master are #53 and #69, both of which are popular in my school
area.  The first step involved is to get one of these locks. The way best to
get one is to wait until you see one left unlocked. Then just take it and
leave. This is the best way, because they just think, "Damn... I left my lock
unlocked and someone stole it"... If you go around breaking them off, then the
school is wondering what is going on, even before you begin the master!
Once you have one, you must next remove the back cover. This can be done in
one of the following ways:

1. Place a screwdriver (flathead) into the place where the keyhole on the back
is. Not in the actual keyhole where the key is inserted, but on the side,
between the keyhole peice and the back cover. Then simply jam upward on the
screwdriver or hit it firmly with a hammer (sledge if available!).

2. Use a wheel-grinder to grind off the edge on the back of the lock all the
way around the lock. Then, simply pull off the back cover with a pair of
pliers. Note: the metal housing of the lock is very firm, and when using the
grinder on it, it will become red-hot and begin to glow before it is filed off.

3. Bang the lock around on the ground and stomp on it till it breaks open!

I used the 2nd method.

   After the back cover is removed, you then find a thicker second plate. If
you used method #2 then you can simply use the grinder to grind off the small
peice of metal in the middle of that plate, which holds it on. (On some
versions of the lock, there may be other peices of metal from the main housing
holding on that plate, just grind them all off)... Once ground off, you must
then only use a screwdriver and pry the second plate off. If you didn't use the
grinder then this is still possible, but will be a lot harder to remove. If
when you finally get it open, peices of the lock fly all over, don't worry...
Unless you were planning to put the lock back together (yeah, right!) then you
do not need the parts together. The part you DO need (a lot!) is a small silver
-colored peice that contains the brass key-hole section inside. Just get this
part... It's all you need. You should also note the version number of the lock
which is on the back plate (which you've already taken off)... you will need
this number so you know what type of lock the master key goes to.
Now... the trickiest and actually the hardest part of this project is getting
the little brass peice out of its silver lining. The silver part is hard to
break apart, and hitting it or prying it can cause it to be dropped. The brass
peice contains pins that will fall out very easily. The best way I have found
to remove the brass portion without the risk of dropping it or losing the pins
is to melt off the silver-like portion. The complete peice looks something
like this:
               ___
              / K \     K represents the keyhole
              | K | 
              \_K_/ 
                |  /___ Piece Mentioned  
                |  \     Below...

   The side opposite of the portion which sticks out the bottom is the part
which should be melted. Use a blow-torch to melt the portion away. It will melt
at a temperature slightly above normal solder with a soldering iron. Once you
have melted the portion away enough so that you could pull out the brass peice,
let it cool. After it has cooled, pick up both peices together (do not remove
the brass from the silver yet!). Turn both peices over (holding the brass in
the silver still!!). You will then have the brass portion in one hand below the
silver portion in your other hand... Carefully remove the silver portion,
making sure no pins fall out of the brass peice. The silver peice can then be
discarded. Place a peice of clear tape around the brass peice to hold the four
pins inside.

   Now comes the key forming process. Go to your local K-Mart or Wal-Mart and
get a couple of key blanks. If you are then you may pay for the keys if you
like.) The key that works the best is model CO-10 made by CURTIS. You may or
may not later need to file a tiny amount off the TOP of that key. Anyways,
it is the best key I have come across that fits. Now use some form of a file
(I suggest using the grinding-wheel again) and file off about 2-3mm (Yes,
milimeters) from the bottom of the key. Now, remove the tape from your brass
peice (be sure the pins are up, so they do not fall out!!). Insert the key into
the brass peice key-hole. Push it in until it sticks out the other end about
 0.5mm (or just... "not very far"). Starting at the far end of the key (the
fourth pin) look and see how much of the pin is sticking out of the brass
peice. Remember approx. that distance and remove the key. Take your file and
file down on the key a dip in the place where that pin (4) would line up on
the key. Do NOT file down too far. Every-so-often re-insert the key to see how
far the pin is getting closer to even with the brass peice. When the pin sticks
out none and is also NOT inside the brass peice at all, then move on to the
next pin doing the same thing. If you file down too far then the key is
worthless and must be re-done. After all four pins have been completed, they
should be perfectly even with the brass peice when the key is in place. Be sure
to re-tape the pins inside the brass peice. Finally your key is complete, try
it out on another lock (with the same version number on the back-plate)... You
may need to move the key around a little inside of the key-hole to make it
work. If it does work then turn the key back and forth inside the key-hole
about 10-20 times to 'break-in' the key to work better. If it doesn't work then
try the key in your brass portion again. If they are incorrect then try again.
Don't worry, with a little practice, you'll be able to file out a key in under
5 minutes!  Well, that's it! My school also had normal master locks that they
used for other things (Stadium fence, power boxes, etc.) that I also mastered.
It's done in just about the same way, so you can experiment. Just a warning...
be sure NO ONE sees you using or just having the keys. Also, be sure not to
sell them to anyone unless you're sure they're not gonna give them to everybody
else. I say this because I was suspended from school for 14 days because the
kid that I worked on the keys with, sold one to another kid. So once people
found out he was selling them, others wanted one. He then had to tell people
no (so that not everyone in the fuckin' school would have one!). One of these
persons decided to be an asshole and narced on us. That, of course, is what
got me suspended. There also is a way to determine the combination of a lock
after taking it off and using the master key. This will be explained in the
next file. That's it for now... Thanx for reading this file intended for
ENTERTAINMENT purposes ONLY!       hehehe...


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