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                                  March 28, 1992

                                      PCV.ASC
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              This file shared with KeelyNet courtesy of John Draper.
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                                      PCV Jar

       Here is a  device  that  you  can  build  that will improve your gas
       mileage by at least 25%, and also  keep  your  oil, engine and spark
       plugs cleaner, thus allowing your engine to have a much longer life.
       The device can be made for a total cost of about $12.00,  and  about
       two hours of labor.

       The device consists  of a 1 quart jar, a small V8 fruit juice can or
       similar container, window screen, BBs', hoses, washers and clamps.

       The device is installed in between  the PCV valve of your automobile
       engine and the vacuum source the PCV valve is normally connected to.

       The device condenses  the  oily  vapors  normally  sucked  into  the
       combustion chamber as  part  of  the pollution control systems, in a
       container of BBs', where the vapors  condense  around  the BBs', and
       drain into the bottom of the jar.  If you can find  them,  use glass
       beads the same  size  of  the BBs'.  I have been unable to find any,
       but I know that they are made.

       Blow by gases, containing gasoline  vapors,  are drawn back into the
       engine for burning.  Combustion efficiency is improved  as  a result
       of the oily  vapors  collected in the jar, rather than contaminating
       the fuel/air charge in the combustion chamber.

       Obtain a 1 quart jar, preferably with  a wide mouth.  The wide mouth
       is necessary for the juice can containing the BBs'  to  fit  in  the
       jar.  Being careful not to damage the sealing gasket of the jar lid,
       locate and cut a 1/2 inch hole in the very center of the jar lid.

       Locate and cut  another 1/2 inch hole midway between the hole in the
       center of the lid and the outside  edge  of  the  jar  lid.  At this
       point, the jar lid has two, 1/2 inch holes cut in it.   Try  to keep
       the holes neat  without  any  excess metal protruding above or below
       the lid surface.

       Obtain a length of 1/2 inch, all threaded pipe, and 6, 1/2" nuts.  I
       use the pipe and nuts, that are used in lamps and lighting fixtures,
       and buy it at lamp shops.  Some of this pipe has a seam in it, which


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       you don't want.   This device must be air tight, as engine vacuum is
       connected.  Cut 1, 2-1/2 inch length and 1, 1-1/2 length.

       Cut the end with the pouring hole,  out  of  the small V8 juice can.
       Wash out and dry the can.  Cut a 1/2 inch hole in the  center of the
       juice can.  Using  1/2  inch  nuts,  and fender washers and silicone
       gasket sealer (you'll have to enlarge  the  holes  in the washers to
       fit the 1/2 inch pipe), install the 2-1/2 inch length of pipe in the
       V8 juice can.

       Leave about two threads of the pipe, showing down  inside  the  can.
       Use the fender  washers  on  both  side  of the juice can to provide
       support.  This can will be eventually  filled  with  BBs',  and  the
       washers are necessary because of the weight.

       Take the 1-1/2  inch  length  of  threaded  pipe, 2  nuts  and  some
       silicone gasket sealer,  and install in the hole of the jar lid, NOT
       the hole in the very center.  Leave  2  or  3  threads  of  the pipe
       showing on the underside of the jar lid.

       Back to the  juice  can.  Cut a piece of aluminum window  screen  to
       neatly fit the  inside  of  the juice can, and push it down into the
       juice can, leaving no gaps for the  BBs'  to  roll into the threaded
       pipe.  Fill the can completely, with copper plated BBs'.

       Take another piece of aluminum window screen, and pull  it  over the
       end of the  juice  can,  leaving  about  a 1/2 inch skirt of screen.
       Using a large worm gear type hose  clamp,  gently tighten the clamp,
       snugging the screen to the outside surface of the  juice  can.   You
       have to be  careful here.  You want to tighten the clamp just enough
       where the juice can STARTS to deform.

       Install this can full of BBs' in  the  center  hole  of the jar lid,
       using washers and nuts.  Leave about 1/2 inch of space  between  the
       top of the juice can and the other pipe installed in the jar lid, to
       allow the blow-by gasses to exit the jar.

       Install 1/2 inch  elbow on both pipes protruding from the top of the
       jar lid.  Install a 1-1/2 inch piece of pipe into each elbow.

       Obtain 1/2 automobile heater hose, and connect the jar to the engine
       as follows:

          o  From the center pipe of the jar lid, connect to the PCV
             valve.  If the hose is too large, use a worm gear clamp to
             secure the hose.

          o  From the other pipe in the jar lid, connect a 1/2 inch
             section of heater hose to the vacuum source of the engine.

       MAKE SURE THAT THE JAR IS ABSOLUTELY AIR TIGHT ! !  If not, you will
       know what is meant by a vacuum leak.

       Now for the hardest part:

       You want to locate a spot in the  engine  compartment  to  mount a 1
       pound coffee can, in which to hold the jar.  Try to  locate  a place
       where the hoses can be kept as short as possible.


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       Cut several holes  in  the bottom of the coffee can to let any water
       drain out that may get in the can after a hard rain or that you have
       driven through.  Cut a couple of pieces of the hose to wedge between
       the coffee can and the jar, to keep it snug and not bouncing around.

       To make this assembly blend into the  engine  compartment, paint the
       jar lid, juice can and the coffee can, flat black.   Consider  using
       hoses the same color as the other engine compartment hoses.

       Depending on how  far  you  drive,  the  jar  will  probably require
       emptying about once  a  month.   Vehicles  which  are  driven  short
       distances and the   engine   never  really  gets   up   to   maximum
       temperature, will require that the jar be emptied about once a week.

       The jar will  contain mostly water, as a result of condensation that
       takes place in the oil pan.  The liquid in the jar contains unburned
       hydrocarbons, water and sludge.  The  liquid  is also mildly acidic,
       as a result  of  the  water  vapor  and  the unburned  hydrocarbons,
       combining.  Some people  have noticed a slight burning sensation, if
       the liquid gets on the skin.

       About every 30,000 miles or so, wash  out  the  BBs'  with varsol to
       keep the passage ways open.

       Your engine will  stay  cleaner and last much longer.   Some  people
       have claimed they  have gone 500,000 miles without a rebuild.  Three
       hundred thousand mile claims are common.   The most mileage increase
       heard, has been 40%.  Twenty five percent is much more common.

       You will not  believe the sludge and "gunk" that builds  up  in  the
       jar.  I broke  an  oil pump shaft in an engine with 185,000 miles on
       it, and when the oil pan was pulled,  there  wasn't  any  sludge  or
       buildup.  I installed the jar when the engine had about 72,000 miles
       on it.  Additionally, the emission test readings are much lower.

       This is one  project  where you'll get a return on  your  money  and
       efforts, very quickly.

                                       *****

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         If you  have comments or other information relating to such topics
         as  this paper covers,  please   upload to KeelyNet or send to the
           Vangard  Sciences  address  as  listed  on the  first  page.
              Thank you for your consideration, interest and support.

           Jerry W. Decker.........Ron Barker...........Chuck Henderson
                             Vangard Sciences/KeelyNet

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