AOH :: CLONEPOT.TXT|
Cloning marijuana from cuttings
Cloning from cuttings
Like many plants, cloning of cannabis is possible through a relatively
simple process. The process itself is quite similar to the cloning of
most other plants and involves rooting branch cuttings from donor
First and foremost all substances coming into contact with the internal
tissues of the plant should be sterilized to prevent infection. Cutting
tools can be sterilized using bleach and growth media using an oven
(most come sterilized).
Cuttings are taken ideally with a 90 degree cut on the branch to
minimize surface area which is susceptible to infection. Then the large
fan leaves near the bottom of the cutting are removed to minimize
transpiration and the larger remaining fan leaf blades are cut to remove
half of their surface area.
The stem is then re-cut at a 45 degree angle, ideally just below a
growth node (the place on a stem where the leaves or branches are
attached). Many growers claim cloning is most successful when clones are
cut so that 1-2 growth nodes are surrounded by the growing medium, with
2-3 showing above the medium. Clones between 3 and 6 inches tall are
Many growers believe that the second cut (of 45 degrees) should be done
underwater to prevent air bubbles (called embolisms) from forming in the
xylem of the stem which may affect water and nutrient uptake. An
embolism is a common cause of internal infections in the plant which is
almost always fatal. Using a clean knife minimizes infection risks,
which can wipe out a number of clones quickly.
Rooting hormone gel or powder mixes are then applied to the cut to
promote root growth and inhibit fungal infection. The cutting is then
placed in a rooting medium which may be a soil mix or a soil-less
medium. Typical soil-less media are Perlite, vermiculite, peat moss,
sand, rock wool or Oasis foam. A good medium is one that drains well,
holds moisture and air well also. Oxygen is important for healthy root
The cuttings in their new medium should be kept at a constant
temperature (around 78 F) and with high humidity. Elevated humidity
levels can be achieved by use of a humidifier or a humidity dome.
Elevated humidity levels slow the transpiration rate which is important
because without a root system the water uptake is very slow; If the
transpiration rate exceeds the uptake rate the cutting is losing water
and will wilt and die.
Many growers use a humidity dome as they are very inexpensive, around
$7, and are easy to use. Many others improvise domes with simple plastic
baggies secured with rubber bands (even less expensive and equally easy
to use). When using a humidity dome, the dome should be removed at least
twice a day and the rooting clones should be fanned to prevent mold and
to give them some air circulation. Alternatively, you can cut off the
bottom of a clear 3-liter bottle and temporarily put it over a single
plant. The cap can easily be removed a couple times a day to easily
The rooting medium should be kept moist and should never dry out.
During other stages of growth one is advised to allow the soil to dry
out to allow the roots to get oxygen and to prevent root rot. Since
cuttings do not have roots this is not of concern. What is of concern is
that a cutting will dry out and die, which occurs very rapidly.
Light intensity should be very low during the rooting process. High
light intensities will force the plant to focus on photosynthesis at the
expense of rooting. Light intensity should be increased during the last
week up to normal illumination levels.
Cuttings usually take 7-14 days to develop root systems. Drooping is
common within the first week. Cuttings that have not regained rigidity
after 7 days are weak and are culled by most growers. To speed the
rooting process keep the cuttings at constant temperature. Allowing the
parent plant to become mildly nitrogen deficient before the cutting is
taken will also speed rooting.
If performed correctly, the cuttings should stay green during their
rooting time, and condensation should appear on the plastic coverings
for the cuttings, which indicates proper humidity. After 7 days, healthy
cuttings will appear strong with leaves reaching upward. Yellowing leaf
tips are a common indicator of successful rooting. Browning likely
indicates too much sunlight, too little humidity, cutting rotting in
sitting water, or unsanitary cloning conditions.
In recent years, stores selling hydroponic grow equipment began offering
automated machines (i.e.: EZCloner, etc.) in which trimmed cuttings are
placed and left alone for approximately two weeks. Anecdotal accounts
from established growers indicate these automated machines have near
100% success rates. Unfortunately, the cost (more than $300 USD) is
prohibitive for most people that grow at home for personal use.
1) Sterilize equipment
2) Remove cutting from mother plant with a 90 degree cut
3) Remove lower fan leaves and remove half of the surface area of
remaining fan leaves
4) Re-cut the stem (preferably underwater) with a 45 degree cut
5) Apply rooting hormone to cut end
6) Place cutting into a moist rooting medium
7) Cover with humidity dome and store at constant temperature (of about
78øF or 25.55øC)
8) Open dome lid and fan cuttings twice a day and keep medium moist
9) Keep illumination level low and increase it from day 7-14
The entire AOH site is optimized to look best in Firefox® 3 on a widescreen monitor (1440x900 or better).
Site design & layout copyright © 1986- AOH
We do not send spam. If you have received spam bearing an artofhacking.com email address, please forward it with full headers to email@example.com.